M4 mixed climbing. M4 is the next step up in mixed climbing.
M4 mixed climbing. and loads of stuff on Unamed wall are some of the clasic nice mixed climbing in Hylaite. M6: Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling. Aug 24, 2025 · The Complete Guide to Mixed Climbing Grades explains everything you need to know to gauge the difficulty of mixed climbs & relates them to familiar YDS rock climbing grades. Feb 24, 2025 · The best crampon for ice and mixed climbing Finally, if technical ice and mixed climbing is your bag, look no further than the Dart. With the growth in popularity of ice climbing, and high profile movies like The Alpinist, it seems more and more people are wanting to get after it. Their new route, Training Wheels (IV, M4, AI3, 5. Most of these routes aren't in guidebooks yet so this information may be helpful for anyone looking to climb them! Guidebook authors are welcome to use this information and/or contact me anytime. 7+, WI2, M4-5”, also known as 5. Sep 14, 2021 · The couloir turns to M4 mixed climbing, and the upper mountain provides more traversing, mixed climbing, steep snow, and alpine ice with a PG13 rating (AKA a grade that suggests your placed protection is trash and it’s best not to fall). M5: Some sustained vertical dry tooling. Classic Climbing Routes at Cobblerest Ice & Mixed Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Nick Quesnel working through the crux of Glacier Pons (M4). New Route Info Information about a few of the first ascents of new climbing routes by CRAG's head guide Jay Mills and friends. ) What’s the point of climbing grades, and who gets to decide? Before we dive into technical talk, here’s a Ptarmigan Peak is located in Anchorage's front range and is easily visible from town. Apr 19, 2022 · Guiding the Canadian Rockies for the past 5 years (and climbing here for over 25) the most common question I am asked is how to get into alpine climbing. • Solstice Wall (M4) – A perfect introduction to mixed climbing with balanced difficulty. IV ("Matrix IV"), the fictional Warner Brothers videogame project inside the 2021 film The Matrix Resurrections Former name of band First to Eleven M4, the robot assistant to the character Flint in the Star Trek episode Requiem for Methuselah Technical grade 5 is relatively straightforward, 6 is somewhat technical mixed climbing, and 7 and 8 are much more intricate, including harder snowed-up rock. Spending a whole season in a place as dynamic as Chamonix in the heart of the French Alps is an interesting experience. In early 2022, a flurry of long new ice and mixed routes were climbed on the Wheeler Crest. The Lillaz Gully is a 7 pitches grade WI4 ice climbing route with a few mixed climbing moves at grade M4 just next to the town of Lillaz. Kennedy Just mixed climbing in the Hully Gully area. The Canadian Rockies has the best ice climbing on the planet… Make the most of your trip to this ice mecca by enlisting the services of a professional ice climbing guide. ) Water Ice grade (WI4, WI5+ etc. I've put a list together of routes that generally are M3/M4, relatively low commitment, well protected and have good options to bail/exit. They returned to their high camp at 7,450 meters just after midnight. Try it out for the first time, get expert training or tackle one of our famous multipitch routes! All guides are highly skilled and are certified through the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG). Here’s five things I learned across the way – the Aug 30, 2021 · French Numerical System (6b+, 8a, etc. Coire Dubh Integral Coire Dubh Integral is the best introduction to winter alpine mixed climbing that the Rockies has to offer! This route has it all with nice ice climbing, moderate mixed climbing, a southern exposure and a great alpine setting. Great cruiser chimneying/stemming. 9 rock, was first climbed by Jack Tackle in 1986 and remains “the best single pitch climb in Hyalite Canyon” to this day – an ultra-classic benchmark for the grade in an area revered for world class winter climbing. When I was first in the Rockies, I was faced with the same quandary. Climbed on Bea Cougar Mountain Drytooling Crag : SummitPost. Over 2,000 feet of mostly moderate snow and ice in the springtime. 07. ) Commitment grade (III, VI, etc. 8 (French 5a/5b) and mixed climbing to M4 or M5. com are considered water ice; however, we have also started to list a few established mixed climbs. [4] See also D-grade. That is, take the M grade, add 4, and that's about what the mixed grade feels like. Also note that lead climbing is required here as there is no easy way to walk around to set up top-ropes. – High Fidelity (WI3+, M4, II) – Hyalite Canyon, MT (11. Jul 17, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Mitja Šorn leads steep ice on the south pillar of Drohmo. Stats One pitch of WI4 (+), one pitch of M4-5, with some easier climbing above and below. You should bring the following if you plan to top-rope: climbing harness, crampons, two ice tools, at least one 60 meter rope, two 10 foot slings, two 20 foot slings. m. I've lead a fair bit of UK trad and have followed on some mixed routes up to M6. Thus on this trip I want to lead some easy (M3/M4) mixed routes around Chamonix. I climb with Dan a beautiful M4 on the south side of Flattop mountain in March 2023. Mar 9, 2020 · Posted at 00:00h in News Ice climbing / Mixed by ricky Condividi:. • Moderate temperatures and crisp conditions make for ideal climbing weather. M5: Low angle dry tooling with brief overhangs, or sustained vertical dry tooling. Low angle; usually no tools. Crux: Several pitches of mixed climbing (M4-M5) with thin ice, then a 'mellow' ice section (AI3-AI4) Traffic: Very Low - rarely attempted Approach: Access via the West Fork; approximately a 30-min ski from the base camp to the couloir mouth Condition Window: Mid-April to early May - ideal for maintaining thick, firm ice Notes: Dec 13, 2004 · MIXED CLIMBING (Falcon Guides, December 2004) by world-renowned climber Sean Isaac, is the first book to provide the world climbing community with cutting-edge information and technical tips about simultaneously climbing both rock and ice. Sean Isaac is a fully certified Alpine Guide with the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. 24) High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. Our thin conditions produced a climb closer to WI4, M5+. 9+ climbing; using the blades of ice axes in cracks to torque and dry-hook is mandatory. I belayed Chris up on a single ice screw then we kicked steps and skinned to the summit. To date there are over a dozen mixed lines ranging from relatively moderate 2,000' lines to unrepeated M9 test pieces. This route definitely deserves an R or X rating even by Mt Hood standards. Combine with Alexander’s for a big day. Whether climbing in the summer or winter, an alpine route on Longs Peak is perfect training ground for bigger alpine climbing goals such as the Himalaya or Patagonia. At 7:30 p. Aug 24, 2025 · Our Complete Guide to Mixed Climbing for Details on grades and example videos of various Mixed Climbing Grades. Sean Isaac has climbed hard alpine and mixed routes in Alaska, Kyrgyzstan, Peru, Pakistan and Patagonia. The name of the crag comes from the I've lead a fair bit of UK trad and have followed on some mixed routes up to M6. This was my first climb coming off of having Covid - I was smoked!!! (Mar 2, 2025) Ice and Mixed Climbing the route 'Silken Slot' in the Dribbles Area of Hyalite Canyon in Montana. M7-M9: Very difficult, steep rock sections, poor ice, and limited protection. Nick leading the second pitch of Hully Gully. Kennedy Just on Glacier Pons (M4). M1-3: Easy. These routes will be on steeper rock and ice, featuring standard ice climbing moves — up to W1-4 — and a few technical dry tooling maneuvers. 7, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12. 9 Longer and more consistent ice sections of WI4 More technical dry tooling techniques required. A 5. M4-M6: Moderate to difficult, requires more technical skill and strength. . Dec 10, 2023 · With choices from M2 to M6+ C1, we chose the median graded, area classic, Alpine Simulator, which receives the consensus grade of “5. May 28, 2013 · P1: Climb mixed terrain leading up to and ascending an ice choked offwidth to gain the more obvious, snow filled gully above, M4, 100 feet. M6 – Feels like 5. double ice axes and crampons) on routes that are not sufficiently covered in ice to be pure ice climbs and have a WI-grade. Its north face, which features a prominent couloir, is a popular venue for steep alpine mixed lines. The 10 or so routes here are short but decent (a mini version of the Catskills or NH), and a few difficult projects await a lead. g. Nov 29, 1999 · Classic Climbing Routes at Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Alpine terrain really draws on many of those learnt skills whether that’s, safe glacial travel, ice climbing, rock scrambling or rock climbing, or a culmination of all that terrain where you’ll wear crampons and use an ice axe over all of it ‘mixed climbing’ All these skills can be learnt separately, and it can really help by focusing on each skill in this way, so that in each of those Feb 15, 2011 · In recent years, a steep flow directly to Buster’s left has formed reliably, providing 3+ to M4 mixed climbing, depending on its condition. 7+ in summer with rock shoes, some WI2 on a generous year and highly conditions dependent winter mixed climbing between M4 and M5? Dec 20, 2024 · • Frozen Smile (M5) – A mixed route that challenges creativity and technique. M8: Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes Mar 9, 2020 · 21 Nov Last Train to Fort William, 200 m, TD-, M4+ Rising nearly 3,000 feet, this classic moderate alpine ice and mixed route follows a central couloir with steep snow climbing, steps of ice up to WI4 and mixed/rock climbing around M4. The top classic sport, trad, boulder, and ice / mixed rock climbs in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing (Dec 23, 2024) Ice/Mixed Climbing the route ‘The Thrill is Gone’ on Unnamed Wall in Hyalite Canyon, Montana. M1-M3: Easy to moderate, often includes good rock holds and manageable ice. Autumn through spring also yields some amazing ice and mixed climbing opportunities on Longs Peak and other subpeaks in the surrounding Chasm cirque. ) YDS, or Yosemite Decimal System (3rd Class, 5. 7 or 5. Sustained WI3+ ice, M3-4 mixed climbing, or grade 16-18 rock. We did the Slot Chimney finish, which is wayy high quality than the normal slab Mar 11, 2021 · I took the next lead which involved a couple of body lengths of M4 mixed climbing with crampons on the limestone slopers and tools overhanging glacial ice. The climb is slightly less sustained, but no less fun, than the challenging routes on the central face. M4: Slabby to vertical with some technical dry tooling. The grades go from M1 to M16. Vince Anderson shares strategies, key beta and insight into how to climb this challenging test-piece. org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. M4 is usually the start of tooling; below that grade, it's often easier to just used glove hands (exception abound). I came to climbing from Oct 20, 2021 · Mixed terrain grades In terms of mountaineering and free climbing, mixed terrain comprises rock, snow, and ice sections – sometimes overlapping. , well after dark, the two reached the summit, where Babanov reported strong wind and temperature of –25C to –30C (–13F to –22F). Full rock rack with five to six screws. Observing the conditions & season change through the months, and adapting to the most practical way to experience the mountains is a great learning process. Jan 8, 2025 · While only 50 feet of mixed climbing remained until our prospective bivy spot at 19,200 feet in the notch, the previous 15 hours of simul-climbing and the huge jump in elevation had left me fatigued on a whole new level. Proud dad being able to ice climb with his daughter. 6, A1), the Enclosure, Grand Teton, Wyoming. M4 – Feels like 5. ) Mixed grade (M4, M5 etc. The two most popular routes on Ptarmigan's north face, other than the moderate couloir Oct 17, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. May 22, 2023 · My climbing partner Enrico Calvanese just finished editing this video of a mixed ice and rock climb we did in Rocky Mountain National Park this March. If you plan to lead or do mixed routes you will need in addition: 3-4 ice screw of varying lengths, stopper set, a few medium cams, 6-7 quickdraws. Grade VIII and above: The hardest routes in Scotland. 8). Photo by Landon Wiedenman courtesy of Paul Rachele News link: Landon Wiedenmann and Paul Rachele have climbed a new mixed rock and ice route on the North Face of the Enclosure on the Grand Teton in Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park. 17. I reached a decent stance and removed my crampons, hoping that the next slabby section would be easier without them. I was joined by the Alpine Peanut herself, a proud effort for her third day ever ice climbing. Notch Couloir (M3), Longs Peak The classic alpine climb in the front range. However, this does cause less consistency in the formation of several routes. Learning to use your tools and crampons on rock is where art meets physics. The Unnamed Wall has a variety of climbs, ranging from fat WI 3 to very difficult mixed (M7-9). Many of these mixed routes are also climbable in dry months as pure rock climbs. ) Aid rating (A2, A3+, etc. As such we welcome feedback on grades and new developments in that area. In six months I logged a half dozen leads at the WI4 grade, including a winter solo of the Grand Teton and an on-sight lead of the Hyalite Canyon mixed climbing classic, The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4). He has been ice climbing for 30 years and instructing ice for the past 20 years. P3: Climb more classic alpine snow up to the start of a beautiful WI3 runnel. Dec 4, 2003 · This particular area was put up by a mountaineers ice climbing course to initiate their study of mixed climbing. Steel on granite: powerful, accurate, unforgiving, demanding and graceful. A series of gullies with snow and some thin ice, linked by occasional short traverses What is a mixed climbing route? Mixed climbing is a discipline where you use both dry rock and ice to climb a route, relying on your crampons and ice tools to gain purchase on either surface. M5 – Feels like 5. M4 (EP), a 2006 EP by Faunts M4 (video game), a 1992 computer game developed for the Macintosh M. double ice tools or ice axes in their hands, and crampons on their feet), but to protect the route, they use both ice and rock Mar 9, 2020 · Posted at 00:00h in News Ice climbing / Mixed by ricky Condividi: Grade VII: Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing. Sustained 60° to 65° ice/mixed climbing or rock climbing around grade 13-15. Dec 14, 2023 · The Ghetto Simulator is a six pitch route on the west side of the North Face of Garden Creek Gap, most commonly climbed as a mixed route in winter. Low angle. Dry tooling mixes ice climbing and rock climbing technique, along with a few moves that are completely unique to the sport. M4 is the next step up in mixed climbing. M4 = 5. He spent 41+ days out this season and he ranked this route in his top 5! This is a great route to transition Most routes at alaskaiceclimbing. Mixed terrain grades go from M1 (low-angle terrain that usually requires no ice axes) to M12 (steep terrain with gymnastic moves on tenuous holds). 9 or so (assuming equal skill at both the style of mixed and the style of rock). [1][2] Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoes but feature built in crampons. Winter is here!! Easy snow and a short step of water ice led to two steps of about M4 mixed climbing with good protection. There are several single-pitch trad and sport routes on this side as well. Jun 23, 2023 · Wanting to carry my load, I took the first WI5 pitch on Scepter, marched up a steep scree gully and tied in for Mummy III which carries the grade M5, WI3 in the guidebook. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Winter is here!! November 20, 2024 0 May 30, 2012 · Alexander’s Chimney (M4), Longs Peak Five pitches of harder than the grade indicates mixed climbing. From skiing, ice climbing, mountaineering, or rock climbing, all is possible in the Mont Blanc massif and surrounds The Green Disease wall is a great—for Connecticut—ice and mixed crag located in Chatfield Hollow State Park proper. Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons and ice tools. Crux steps may involve WI4 ice, M4 mixed, or rock climbing around grade 17. Oct 18, 2024 · Bird Brain Boulevard is an iconic mixed climb above Ouray, Colorado. M6 Mar 9, 2020 · Posted at 00:00h in News Ice climbing / Mixed by ricky Condividi: Part of the mixed climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14. Nov 7, 2020 · A common conversion for mixed is +4. To the right, two more flows (Boozer and Bruiser), both with good walk-around access to their tops and fixed anchors, provide enough room for at least four ropes. 9 climbing; using the blades of ice axes in cracks to torque and dry-hook is useful. During that time, he has taught more than a thousand people the art of moving safely over frozen waterfalls. Dec 28, 2024 · (Dec 22, 2024) Ice/Mixed climbing the route ‘Bobo Like’ in the Flanders Area in Hyalite Canyon, Montana. Based in Canmore, Alberta in the Canadian Rockies, Sean was a key member of the modern mixed climbing movement Dec 22, 2023 · December 22, 2023 Ice Climbing, Idaho (ice) Alpine Simulator, Brandon Wanthal, dry tooling, Erik Boomer, Garden Creek Gap, mixed climbing Lappin’ the Gap – Ghetto Simulator (M4, 5. ) or Clean Aid rating (C2, C3, etc. 23) Two Lake Louise Ice Gully Variations – Wind River Range, WY (12. Apr 16, 2025 · Dry tooling is a form of climbing that uses technical ice axes and crampons but rather than climbing ice and snow it takes place on routes with nothing but bare rock. Kinda like my first year on rock, I got quite obsessed. North Chimney, Longs Peak (III, M4 Steep Snow) The North Chimney of Longs Peak is an excellent wintertime adventure with steep snow and moderate mixed climbing beneath one of the most famous alpine walls in the country, the Diamond. ) Alpine System (F, ED, etc. e. Together with the rock climbing community theCrag has developed and continues to develop a comprehensive and intuitive coverage of grades in the system. Dec 4, 2003 · Zack attack, Mummy 3, and the Big Sleep and Climb in Between in Flanders. Sep 5, 2021 · Mixed climbing grades — M1, M8, etc. We had a loose plan to exit onto the rock face to the right of the couloir wherever it might look good, but the mediocre rock and lack of attractive crack systems kept us following the line of weakness. You can access the most spectacular drips of frozen water in the most unique locations. It’s Time! – High Fidelity (WI3+, M4, II) – Hyalite Canyon, MT (11. Below we have tried to define the range of difficulty for both water ice and mixed routes. Dec 26, 2024 · Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons and ice tools. The area actually went through some kind of review process before they put in a single bolt. All in all, the route boasts 4,000 feet of fantastic technical climbing. To ascend the route, the mixed-climber uses normal ice-climbing equipment throughout (e. Unlike the Genesis/Mummy areas, the Unnamed Wall is favorably located on the sunny aspect of the canyon. Mixed climbing involves using ice climbing equipment (e. 10 Feb 23, 2022 · A one-hundred foot andesite black rock chimney chocked with ice up to WI4 and mixed climbing up to M5,or 5. Dec 20, 2007 · They called the 3,000-foot Smrdljiva sled (Stinking Trail, TD+, with steep ice and M4 mixed climbing). Dry tooling techniques evolved from mixed climbing, a form of mountaineering where climbers negotiate a mixture of snow, ice and rock during a climb. 6, A1) is a four pitch variation Mar 13, 2022 · Starting the route Petzl Quakr at the beginning of the route Monsters of the Wind – First Winter Attempt – Starting point Here we go Ice tool placement Mixed Climbing Route is getting serious Good placement Looking from above View while mixed climbing – Mount Didymo Gear placement – Sling in Tunnel M3/M4 mixed climbing Mixed Climbing At Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. One word describes Alaska and that is "BIG!" This not only describes the state but the climbs that are in it. May 25, 2022 · This winter I picked up spiky things and climbed frozen water for the first time. Mixed climbing is an ice climbing discipline used on climbing routes that do not have enough ice to be regular ice climbs, but are also not dry enough to be regular rock climbs. Mixed terrain is commonly found on longer alpine climbs and mountaineering ascents. Aaron Thrasher Sep 18, 2009 · Training Wheels (IV, M4, AI3, 5. Nov 5, 2003 · In the 10 pitches leading to the summit, Babanov reported rock up to 5. M6: Vertical to Slightly Overhanging Mixed Climbing Rock Equivalent of 5. Ice and mixed climbing in rural Connecticut, just 15 minutes from the Atlantic Ocean? Yes, that’s right. We called the route Most People are DJs (2,000', IV AI4 M4), after the song by Hold Steady. I have used this crampon on WI6 and M8, on everything from the East Pillar of Torre Egger, to chossy Rockies horror shows, to steep Norwegian pillars. One thing remains common in all Sep 19, 2025 · As a general rule in the more moderate M Grades, to ascertain how a mixed pitch will relate to a rock pitch, you can add four numbers to the Mixed Grade to get a comparable YDS grade (i. Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoes but feature built in crampons. Sep 9, 2019 · Description The south side of The Gap is known for its roadside mixed climbing in the winter. P2: Climb easy snow up to a heady chockstone crux which can be passed via ice on either side depending on conditions, M4. Moves are still standard dry tool placements without Figure 4s or 9s. 23) Aug 24, 2025 · M5: Challenging Mixed Climbing Longer and more sustained climbing than M4. The remainder of the route consisted of moderate mixed climbing, to M4, following the ramp system to the top of the ca 6,000' sub peak of Yukla. M7: Overhanging; powerful and technical dry tooling; less than 10 m of hard climbing. 11b, etc. An unusually heavy and wet December snowpack, followed by a long warm and dry spell, had transformed this rugged desert mountainside into a winter climber’s wonderland. Feb 15, 2011 · In recent years, a steep flow directly to Buster’s left has formed reliably, providing 3+ to M4 mixed climbing, depending on its condition. Apr 22, 2019 · Awesome mixed climbing (M3) brought me to the point where the icy rock became mostly dry. So M5 should feel like 5. Feb 15, 2025 · Kennedy Just Kennedy Just finishing the climb. 8 climbing. Having been leading mixed climbs up to M5 on bolts, M4+ on gear and climbing WI3 in my sleep, I figured this was a logical next step. 7 climbing experience. Another awesome day out with Derrick and Max. As a result, a separate grading system is required to describe them. Dry-tooling is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" onto itself. • Ice climbing is in full swing. It was a 14-hour roundtrip from the boulder bivouac, with a descent via the Icicle Glacier. From the single-pitch climbs along the Seward Highway and trad climbing and bouldering in Hatcher Pass, to Denali, the tallest mountain in North America, Alaska has something to offer everyone from committing alpine mixed lines to 3000ft granite walls. Previous ice & mixed climbing experience as well as good fitness is required to Easy snow and a short step of water ice led to two steps of about M4 mixed climbing with good protection. Nov 20, 2024 · High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. 5, 5. May have crux sections of WI4+ ice, M5 mixed, or grade 20 rock. Rock Equivalent of 5. The current range is 4-9. Mixed climbing is the most medieval form of climbing. The route involves a mix of pitched climbing and moving together as a team in order to cover a large amount of terrain. 9t5na5p it qo4 3hhz1bth oaqs ivpl9 wxyfl3 jiwterl 1jpec0w kg
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